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A Gundam builder's guide to IPMS

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I've been building models for over 10 years now and competing for close to 5. In that time I've learned some hard, painful lessons but I've also made some of the best friends of my life. Competing in model building is a very unique and rewarding experience and I hope to better equip you for what is to come! I want to take a moment to say thank you to those of you support me on  Patreon ! If you're not subscribed yet, go check it out and consider signing up for as little as 1$ per month. I raffle off some of my completed works once per year and take tutorial requests from all patrons! It seems to me that the dudes who spend their time gluing bits of plastic together to make model robots should have a lot in common with the dudes who glue bits of plastic together to make model planes and tanks. But walk around the sci-fi sectiont at an IPMS show and you’ll almost certainly hear someone complaining that “these IPMS guys just don’t know what they’re doing whe...
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Guide for Beginners: Shading

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Its been a while since i've done one of these and i dont want to ramble so let's jump right into it. What is Shading/Highlighting? Simply put shading is a paint technique that simulates Shadows , which can make an object look three dimensional. Technically speaking Shading and Highlighting refer to the same thing, when working off your base coat a darker color will be a shade and a brighter one will be a highlight. There are several different styles of shading/ highlighting, each with their own pros and cons. Panel Highlighting - The most prevalent style used in Gundam painting. Each part or subsection is treated as its own "shade area". This style creates a great amount of contrast and so is very visually interesting . Its down side is that is does not convey a sense of realism . Positional Highlighting - The "Miniature Painting" style. The artist visualizes a point of light and highlights the entire model as a single "s...
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Extreme Squad Lupus

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My painted build of the Extreme Squad Lupus conversion for FM barbatos. This was an excellent quality kit. The molding is crisp and details are beautifully rendered in soft, sandable resin. It was de-nubbed easily and with minimal dust by method of wet sanding under running water. I prepared the surface by sanding with 400, then 800, then 1000 grit sanding sponge. Then primed with Mr. Surfacer 1000. There were a few spots that should have been fixed with putty but I missed them at the time. A lesson for next time. Several parts had difficulty retaining paint, chipping down to bare resin after masking several times. (Side skirts, sheathes, and shoulders.) I eventually got paint to stick to these parts using a very thin putty as a tack coat. List of paints used: Gold 1 (light): Gaianotes EX Gold Gold 2: Tamiya TS-23 of which I decanted 40 ml then added 5 drops of clear yellow lacquer (Gaia) Grey 1: NAZCA mechanical surfacer Grey 2: NAZCA super heavy surfacer Metal 1 (grey): Trucolor grap...
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